
WAVE TERMINOLOGY
Chop/Wind chop
Moderate locals winds form little waves known as chop, Which can kill a good surf season.
Left wave
A “left” wave is a wave that breaks from left to right as you are
looking at it from the beach.
Closeout
A wave that breaks along the entire length at the same time,
Making it unsurfable. Can be caused by either a strong
Offshore wind or sea floor topography.
Lip
The upper most part of the breaking wave where a surfer will
do maneuvers.
Crumble/crumbly waves
Waves affected by an offshore wind are said to “crumble.”
The lip of the wave crumbles along the line and, as a
result, spoils the wave for surfers.
Offshore waves
The wind blows from the shore. A ground swell mixed with
Offshore winds makes good surf.
Fetch
The area of the sea surface where the wind generates the
waves/swell. Fetch is one of the key areas in the quality
of a wave and the size of the waves.
Onshore waves
The wind blows towards the beach from the ocean and
as a result, the waves lose their shape.
Glassy
Waves that have incredibly smooth faces due to the lack
of local wind or a slight offshore wind.
Trough
The lowest part between two successive waves.
Whitewater
The foamy part of a wave that has broken.

SURFING TERMINOLOGY
Air compressor
A generator that pumps compressed air into an airbrush or
air hose.
1. Air-compressed tool used to spray acrylic paint designs on
foam or the sanded hot coat of a surfboard. 2. Use an airbrush.
Airbrush
ASP (Association of Surfing Professionals)
The world governing body for professional surfing.
See hollow composite sandwich, cored composite sandwich,
thermo plastic skinned.
Advanced composite surfboard
Amu (Hawaiian)
A part of a canoe that connects the hull to the outrigger.
Aloha (Hawaiian)
Hello, good bye; love, compassion.
Acetone
Chemical solvent used to clean off polyester resin,
as well as dirt or wax, on a cured board.
Alaia
In ancient Hawaii, a thin, wide surfboard for quick-breaking
surf commonly made from koa or breadfruit; sometimes
called omo.
Acid splash
Typically a random mix of opaque pigments in the
laminate coat that are spread across the board by
using a squeegee.
A
Banjo board
Surfboard designed by legendary shaper/designer Dale Velzy.
Barn
A California term for “Barney.”
Barney
Someone who doesn’t surf very well. The term was derived from the
Hanna-Barbera cartoon character Barney Rubble on The Flintstones.
Usage: “Get out of my way, ya Barney.”
Barnyard
A derivation of Barney - an unskilled or uncool surfer.
Belly board
Short surfboard (three to five feet) used for prone surfing, most often
by children or beginners. Popular in the 1950s and 1960s.
Bender
Also called stepdeck. A longboard designed to flex or bend during a
ride, altering the rocker of the board, to make the board fit the
contours of the wave better in certain situations. Usually this design
is used to enhance noseriding. For more info see the book Surfboards
by Guy Motil. (Also what surfers may go on when the surf has been
flat for a exceptionally long time).
Betty
An attractive female. Derived from Betty Rubble, a character on
The Flintstones. It has also been suggested that the term is
named for the character Betty in Archie comics.
Big Time
An intensifier roughly meaning anything in high proportions, as in
“to eat it or wipe out big time.”
Blank
The unshaped core material used to make a surfboard, usually of
foam or wood.
Blow-through
An air bubble that goes all the way through the glass job that was
caused by gas in the blank or the wood stringer; also called pinhole.
Bu, the Bu
Abbreviation for Malibu
Bucket
One-gallon container a glasses uses to hold working resin.
Buffing pad
A soft backing behind the cotton mitt on a grinder that is used to polish
a board along with rubbing compound.
Burn-through
When a hot coat or gloss coat is sanded away and exposes
the fiberglass Cloth, causing a weak point in the board; also
sand through.
B
Chip, Malibu chip
The name given to the first all balsa wood boards constructed in the
late 1940s and 1950s. Much smaller than giant planks, they were
referred to as potato chips; later they became known as Malibu
boards or Malibu Chips.
Choice
Great, as in “choice waves.”
Closed cell polyethylene surfboard
(BZ, INT, Doyle, Morey, etc.) - Construction method using a high-density,
resilient foam core with a semisoft sheet foam exterior and some type
of hard-skinned Bottom.
Cored composite sandwich surfboard
(Tufilite/Surftech, Boardworks, Placebo, Firewire, etc.) - Construction
method using a low-density foam core covered by a sandwich of
laminates and high-performance sheet foam filler.
Cowabunga
(usually spelled with an exclamation mark) Usually an exclamation
meaning awesome, great, Wow! 1. In the 1950s, Buffalo Bob used
to open each episode of the Howdy Doody Show with this greeting
to boys and girls all across the nation. It caught on with the surfers
of the 1960s (who grew up with the show) and became a part of our
culture. 2. Cowabunga! The Surf Box The Quintessential compilation
of surf music; released by Rhino records in 1963 (and still the best
ever - the included booklet alone is worth the price, trust me on this).
If you appreciate surf or rock history you should find a copy of this
music classic for your collection.
Crystallization
Caused when moisture from acrylic paint released during the
catalyzation process get trapped in the resin and forms
crystal-like bubbles.
Cut lap
The visible cut line along the cloth on the rail.
C
Da Cat
1. Nickname for legendary surfer Miki “Da Cat” Dora. 2. Surfboard
model created by Miki Dora and Greg Noll in the 1960s (and a later
limited edition in the 1990s). Both boards are highly sought-after
collectibles, Dale Velzy, Legendary surfer/surfboard designer/
shaper generally credited with developing the commercial tools and strategies that allowed the then fledgling surf community of the 1940s and 1950s to begin building the global surf industry we see today.
Deck traction
1. Generally referring to self-adhesive rubber pads applies to the deck
of a surfboard to give a surfer better grip with his feet (e.g. Astrodeck).
2. May also refer to spray-on traction coatings.
Delamination
When the layer of resin and fiberglass separates from its bond with the
shaped blank.
Derel
A term used in a derogatory or joking sense to describe someone
who is lacking in intelligence; short for the word derelict. Usage:
“What a derel.”
Dial
To plug in - like a telephone. Usage: “Let’s dial in on some waves.”
Dialed
To be connected or hooked up. Usage: “Ah, dude, your room is fully
king: you’re so dialed.”
Disc sander
A disc-shaped power tool used for sanding surfboards; also known
as a power sander or grinder.
D
Fiberglass
Fine filaments of silica glass made into a yarn and woven into a fabric
that is used to reinforce resin.
Fillet
The resin and fiberglass support area at the base of a glassed-on fin.
Fin rope
A rarely used material made of fiberglass strands woven into rope
that is applied for strength when glassing on fins. See also roving.
Fin system
Generic term to describe the various removable fin setups using
plus or boxes.
Fire; firing
Go off, going off. Another superlative to describe good surf. Usage:
“Hey, Supers is firing on all cylinders.
Flail
To make eccentric, often funny arm and body movements to surf
in a clumsy manner. Usage: “Tommy flails.”
Flap, flappin’
To make spastic arm movements: to flail.
Foam core surfboard
See also polyurethane/foam and fiberglass (P/U): also see EPS/epoxy.
Free lap
A lamination technique used with Silane cloth and ortho resin
where the lap step is eliminated because the cloth is not visible
under the resin.
F
Glasser
Person who applies laminate resin and fiberglass on a shaped blank.
Glass job
Overall term used to describe the process of applying and/or the
finished product of a surfboard’s fiberglass and resin coat.
Gloss coat
A special, thin coat of resin brushed on after a board has been sanded,
which is later polished to make a shiny, reflective finish.
Greenough spoon
A type of kneeboard.
G

SURF terminology

wave terminology
Haole (Hawaiian)
White skinned, foreigner comes from ha, meaning breath of life,
and ole, meaning not, or lack of.
Hatchet fin
The “Turn Fin” developed by Dewey Weber for the Performer
surfboard in the mid-1960s.
Hawaiian redwood plank
Early Hawaiian solid redwood surfboards (1800s to 1930).
He’e (Hawaiian)
To slide, to surf.
He’e nalu (Hawaiian)
To surf, a rider of the waves; wave sliding.
Hoe (Hawaiian)
Paddle for a canoe.
Hoku’ (Hawaiian)
Star.
Hollow composite sandwich surfboard
Category of surfboard construction; includes boards that feature a
hollow skeleton made of a composite material such as carbon.
Hot coat
Layer of resin applied after the laminate coat has kicked that makes
a glass job possible to sand; also called sanding resin.
H
Insane
Really great; usually used to describe the surf. Usage: “It was totally insane.”
Isophtalic, iso
A slightly stronger polyester resin with a slight tint that is used in
color laminations or with Volan cloth.
I
Kahuna (Hawaiian)
A priest, sorcerer, or expert practitioner in all things surf and waves.
Kakala (Hawaiian)
The style of surfing used when riding an alaia board for
fast-breaking waves.
Kane (Hawaiian)
Male, man.
Kick
Resin that is catalyzing.
Kiko’o (Hawaiian)
A very long surfboard, 12’ to 18’, used in more-challenging
surf conditions.
Killer
A complimentary word meaning awesome or great. Usage: “That
was a killer wave” “Let’s go get some killer slices (pizza).”
Killing (killin) It
Surfing well. When you’re ripping hard. Usage: “You were killing
it out there today.”
Kioe (Hawaiian)
A small surfboard.
Kipapa (Hawaiian)
To surf laying in the prone position.
Koa (Hawaiian)
A soldier, brave, a tree (Acacia koa).
Kokua (Hawaiian)
To help; consideration.
Kona (Hawaiian)
South; southwest; his, hers, its.
Kook
An unskilled or uncool surfer.
K
Laminate
1. The first layer of resin used to hold the fiberglass cloth to the
shaped blank. 2. The act of applying the first layer of resin.
La (Hawaiian)
Sun; the day.
La’au (Hawaiian)
Wood.
Log
A very heavy surfboard.
Lay up
The act of applying fiberglass and resin to a surface. See also laminate.
Layup
A term to describe the materials used to laminate a board.
L
Ma’hina (Hawaiian)
The moon.
MEKP
Abbreviation for methyl ethyl ketone peroxide, commonly known as a
catalyst or hardener for polyester resins.
Mahalo (Hawaiian)
Thank you; to wonder appraise.
Mask-off
Putt on masking tape to keep resin or paint off of a desired area.
Macking
When huge waves roll in, big and powerful as a Mack truck. Usage:
“The waves are fully macking.”
Malibu chip
Balsa wood surfboard from the early 1950s. See also Chip.
Mal
Australian term for an old-style longboard. From the 1950s
“Malibu board.”
Ma kau (Hawaiian)
Toward the mountains.
Major
Big Time. Usafe: “a major lull.”
M
Naiu (Hawaiian)
Surf, ocean, wave.
Nalu ha’i lala (Hawaiian)
A wave that breaks for a long way.
Nectar
1. The juice, or energy, of a wave. 2. Any fruit juice, such as papaya,
passion fruit, or mango. 3. Sweet, like nectar, used to describe an
attractive female. Usage: “She’s really nectar.”
Noseride, noseriding
Riding the wave while standing on the front foot or two of one’s surfboard.
Noserider
1. A type of surfboard specifically designed to allow the surfer to stand on
the nose of the board while riding the wave. 2. A surfer who is especially
good at riding on the nose of his board.
N
Ohana (Hawaiian)
Family, relatives.
Onaulu loa (Hawaiian)
A lengthy and great wave.
Olo (Hawaiian)
Same type of surfboard as the alaia.
One (Hawaiian)
Sand.
Onini (Hawaiian)
A very thick surfboard made of wiliwili wood is very difficult to ride.
‘Opu’u (Hawaiian)
A large swell.
Opaque
Nontransparent, white based color paint pigment added to laminating
resin; Used to give a glass job any desired shade of color.
Orthophthalic, ortho
Commonly used polyester resin that has a crystal-clear finish.
O
Pacific Systems Holmes
Generally considered to be the first production surfboards. Initially using a
Swastika symbol for their logo, it was subsequently changed in the late
1930s for obvious reasons. (See Surfboards by Guy Motil for more info).
Paha (Hawaiian)
Type of surfboard.
Paipo board
Similar to a belly board but sometimes made of plywood or other thin
wood panels in addition to traditional surfboard building materials.
Sizes vary dramatically (2’0 to 6’0). Popular in the 1950s and 1960s,
especially in Hawaiian Islands. See also belly board or body board.
Palule aloha (Hawaiian)
Aloha shirt.
Pama
Palm tree.
Papa he’e nalu (Hawaiian)
A board for wave riding.
Particle mask
Small, light paper facemask used to keep out dust or air particles.
Pau (Hawaiian)
Ended, finished, done.
Performer
Created by surfing legend Dewey Weber (and his prime design
collaborator Harold “Iggy” Ice), the Weber Performer is the most
popular surfboard model ever made. First released in the mid-
1960s, it is still in production today.
Pig, pig board
A board with the wide point behind center that when viewed from above
looks like the template of a pig. A term first coined by the Velzy/Jacobs
collaboration (1950s) and later a major model release by Dewey Weber
Surfboards (1971). The design has inspired many variations including
the very successful Cheyne Horan single-fin designs of the 1980s.
Pin air
Air bubbles that are visible in between the weave of the fiberglass in the
laminate coat, usually a sign of a bad lamination. See also blow-through.
Pinline
A thin, decorative stripe of paint or resin, typically put over a cut lap or
along the edge of a color.
P
Polyester
A person who performs the last process of a glass job by fine wet and dry
sanding and then buffing out the gloss coat into a mirror-like shine; also
called rubout guy.
Polystyrene
A lightweight type of plastic foam blank that works well with epoxy resins.
Polyurethane
The most commonly used plastic form blank since the late 1960s,
compatible with polyester and urethane-based resins.
Polyurethane/foam and fiberglass (P/U) surfboard
Often referred to as the “traditional” surfboard construction method, this
process uses a polyurethane foam blank, fiberglass cloth, and polyester resin.
Most surfboards made from 1955 to 2000 were constructed using this process
Planer
1. A power tool used to cut down the foam of a blank being shaped.
2. A hand tool (plane) used to cut down the wood stringer of a blank
being shaped.
Polisher
A person who performs the last process of a glass job by fine wet and dry
sanding and then buffing out the gloss coat into a mirror-like shine; also
called rubout guy.
R
Rad, radical
Super cool. Usage: “Those waves were rad.” “That was a radical bottom turn.”
Redwood plank
A type of surfboard made popular once redwood became readily available
in the Hawaiian Islands in the late 1800s. Used extensively in the early
1900s by Duke Kahanamoku and others. As a result, the type of surfboard
exported throughout the world.
Reeling
Firing, going off. Usage: “The surf was reeling.”
Resin abstract
Resin design that uses mixed or unmixed pigments and then blends them
Together by using a squeegee in the lamination coat to create a desired
design. See also acid splash.
Respirator
Safety mask with carbon filters that helps reduce inhalation of resin
fumes and dust.
Rocker
The curved shape of a surfboard when viewed from the side.
Router
Power tool used to route a groove or hole in the board to install a fin
box, fin system, or leash plug.
Roving
Long strands of fiberglass used to support the base of a surfboard fin.
Rubbing compound
Diatomaceous paste used to polish the gloss coat.
S
Sanded finish
A board that has been sanded on the hot coat, or gloss coat but has not
been polished.
Sanding pad
A bitter backing pad attached to a disc sander that is used behind
sandpaper or a buffing mitt.
Shears
Long, heavy-duty scissors used for cutting fiberglass cloth.
Silane
A fiberglass cloth with a clear finish that makes the weave undetectable
when saturated with resin.
Softboard
Soft surfboard. See also closed cell polyethylene surfboard.
Spoon
1. Type of kneeboarding popularized by the designs of George Greenough
in the 1960s. 2. Type of longboard where the nose portion of the deck is
scooped out to reduce weight or increase flex in the front third of the board.
Squeegee
Wide, flexible rubber tool used to apply laminating resin.
Stepdeck
See Bender.
Stand-up paddle board
See SUP.
Stinger
A type of surfboard designed by Hawaii’s Ben Aipa in the 1970s.
Stringer
Wood strip that is glued down the center of a blank to provide added strength.
Styrene monomer
1. Toxic solvent added to resin to give it a wetter, thinner liquid form tint.
2. Transparent coloring added to laminated resin.
Surfboard
A board made of wood or foam and fiberglass (among other material) for
riding ocean waves.
Surfing
The act of riding a wave.
Surfing America
IOC-recognized national governing body for surfing in the United States.
Surfing America’s mission is to promote the growth, competitive success,
and positive image of surfing in the USA and to provide the best possible
experience for all participants by encouraging, advancing, and
administrating the sport while producing champions.
Surfing Heritage Foundation (SHF)
A nonprofit organization dedicated to preserving, presenting, and promoting
Surfing’s heritage for the appreciation and education of current and future
generations and to achieving the goal of surfing being more accurately
understood, represented, and enjoyed. Located in San Clemente, California.
SUP
Abbreviation for stand-up paddleboard. A type of surfboard, surfing,
and paddling in which the surfer always stand erect.
Sweet
Cool: said of anything you like. Usage: “That’s sweet.”
T
Take gas
1. To have trouble, especially the kind that leads to a wipeout. 2. To get
trapped in the curl of a wave and lose one’s board to wipeout. Usage:
“I saw you taking gas out there.”
Tank, tanker
A very old and heavy longboard.
Thermoplastic skinned surfboard
(NSP, BIC, South Point, etc.) - This category of surfboard construction
includes boards that generally feature a medium-density foam core
reinforced by fiberglass and resin and covered in a thermoplastic skin.
Tint
A transparent coloring added to laminated resin.
Tri-fin
A surfboard with three similar sized fins. See thrusters.
Tube ride
Surfing in the tube of a breaking wave.
Tubular
Excellent or fantastic.
Two Plus one
A type of multiple fin setup that uses two small outside fins and one
larger center fin. More common on longboards and mid-lengths.
Also 2+1.
U
Ukulele (Hawaiian)
Flea; small guitar.
V
Valley, Val
Derogatory term originally applied to the San Fernando Valley just north of
Los Angeles and to anyone living there who came to the beach. Has come
to mean any place inland or anyone living there.
Volan
A fiberglass cloth used in the 1950s that has a chromium finish, giving it
a greenish, almost teal color.
W
Wa’a (Hawaiian)
Canoe.
Wa’a kaukahi (Hawaiian)
Single-hulled canoe
Wa’a kaulua (Hawaiian)
Double-hulled canoe.
Wahine (Hawaiian)
Female, women.
Waikiki, wai (Hawaiian)
Wai means freshwater, referring to the freshwater swamp behind the
shoreline. The famous main surfing beach at Honolulu, Hawaii.
Waimea (Hawaiian)
Referring to the reddish freshwater (wai) that flows into the bay. To surf
spot on Oahu. Hawaii famous for its huge winter surf.
Wet and dry sandpaper
Fine-grit sandpaper used with water in the final stages of sanding or in
preparing a surfboard for polishing.